Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
